Pattern Review: Burda Magazine Flounce Sleeve Blouse 2017-7-119

The Burda Style Magazine for July 2017 contained several patterns that caught my eye. I shared a few of them on my IG Story and, with help from some IG friends, determined my monthly make should be the ruffled sleeve top, style #119.

Burda Style top
Image from BurdaStyle.com

Since I have a healthy stash, I didn’t want to purchase fabric for this top. I figured something I already owned should do the trick. After debating several options, I settled on a printed swiss dot I purchased at Joann Fabrics early in my sewing career, probably about five years ago.

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Light, with a gentle drape, this fabric has more body than the examples in the magazine. I was worried it might turn out too stiff, but, after spending some time this weekend in Georgetown boutiques and seeing one cotton ruffled and flounced top after another, I decided cotton was on trend for this type of top and would look fine.

 

The pattern is very simple. It consists of only six pieces and is pulled on over the wearer’s head without any zips or button bands. According to the Burda Magazine ratings, this is an intermediate pattern. I agree. While not a particularly difficult sew in a well-behaved cotton fabric, the sparseness of directions required significant sewing know-how to complete this project.

Version 3
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The trickiest bit was the sleeves. I read the directions over and over. They could have been in the original German… I have no idea what they wanted me to do. The incomprehensibility of the directions was impressive. I have followed dozens of sewing pattern instructions over the years, spent over a decade teaching people how to read and write, and hold advanced degrees in English, but I could not figure out those sleeve instructions. No clue.

I finally figured it out by pinning the sleeves onto the bodice and fiddling with them on my dress form until they looked right. (Unfortunately, I was so in the sewing zone that I failed to take photos as I went. Sorry about that!) After much pinning, I decided to fold the sleeves back along the shoulder seam. At the dart in the sleeve, I folded the sleeve back over itself, lining it up again with the shoulder seam and allowing the excess fabric to drape down. This created the sleeve flounce. I basted the shoulder seam, now three pieces of fabric thick, together. For the back sleeve, I folded the fabric back over the shoulder seam and continued the fold around half of the back neckline. At the sleeve dart, I folded the sleeve back over itself and basted all three pieces of fabric as one. The shoulder seams were then sewn together. Each shoulder seam consisted of six layers of fabric! Luckily, with this light cotton, thickness wasn’t a problem and it sewed up easily.

After spending ages scratching my head over the sleeves, I was in no mood to fuss with the fabric loop for the front closure. I found a piece of thin black satin ribbon that I decided would do the job. When sewing the facing to the neckline, I pinned it into place between the two layers of fabric. I positioned the loop facing away from the neck opening. Once sewn together, I turned the facing right side out and the loop was in the perfect spot. The directions for attaching the loop are poor. They tell you to attach it, but don’t describe how. This sewing knowledge is assumed. I strayed from the directions by understitching the facing. This resulted in a crisp facing fold at the neckline.

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Directions on how to construct the bottom of the flutter sleeves were given but, I ignored them. The directions suggest folding over the fabric once and securing the fold with a short zigzag stitch. I worried this would produce a messy finish. Instead, I serged the hem of the sleeves. Then, I folded the serged ends to the inside and secured them with a straight stitch. I think my method produced a neater finish than the recommended method. A rolled hem would also look nice.

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I am wearing a navy camisole under the top due to the depth of the open neck. I think I can get away without it for casual wear.

The finished top was too long on me. This wasn’t surprising as I am shorter that the measurements Burda uses to create patterns. I cut 1.5 inches off the bottom length. I thought a deep hem might balance the heft of the sleeves, so I folded and pressed the hem by 1/2 inch. Then, I folded it over again by 2 inches and sewed it down. This produced a wide 2 inch hem and provided the visual balance I was seeking.

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I finished this make with a round pearl-white button at the neck.

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I like the final shirt so much that I forgive Burda for the poor directions.

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Did you sew a style from the July issue? Tell me all about it in the comments!

Happy Sewing!

XOXO

May Burda Pattern Review: Skirt #108 

 

I’ve been a Burda Style subscriber for over a year now and I really enjoy the publication. While I don’t love every pattern, there are usually a few patterns each month that I really like and want to sew up.

May 2017 Burda Style magazine

If you haven’t yet used the patterns from a Burda magazine, a word of warning- they are intimidating the first time or two. You have to trace them off and add seam allowances. Even though I’ve made quite a few patterns from various issues, it can still freak me out. That said, I highly recommend giving it a go.

This month, my Burda pattern crush is a skirt on page 15:

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I can’t resist bright and sexy. The pocket details are easier to see on page 34:

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I reviewed my fabric stash and settled on a rickrack cotton print. The fabric was part of a Craftsy supply sale a while back and I bought a two-yard cut. I didn’t have enough to cut the entire skirt from this fabric, so the back center panels are a plain white cotton.

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Burda pattern directions are sparse. They assume at least a basic knowledge of sewing from readers. As a result, there is usually something about the pattern that I find tricky. For this pattern, it was the pockets. To attach them to the skirt, you sew them down to the front piece using provided pattern markings. Then, you sew them along with the back side panels to the center back panels. Not tough at all once I figured it out!

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Close-up of the pockets sewn down the front panel and attached at the back panel seam

The rest of construction was very straightforward, especially if you have made a skirt or two before. I installed an invisible zipper and I shortened it by about an inch. I’m short (5’3″) so it hangs at a midi length on me even with an inch off of the length,  I debated making it shorter, but I like how it looks with heels. I didn’t make any other changes to the pattern.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI am really pleased with the final product and am wearing it on the last day of Me Made May 2017!

 

Do you subscribe to Burda Style? What was your pattern crush this month?